anika in mexico

The original plan was to get up early and go to the Bazaar de Sabado, but since I got back at 6am, that was unlikely to happen. When I woke up at 1pm and didn’t feel like doing anything, I decided to skip the bazaar.

I still had to pack for San Miguel de Allende, but a lot of my clothes were still very wet.

I just enjoyed a lazy morning. Karin called and invited me for lunch at 3pm. I got there a bit early so that I could check my email, etc. We didn’t end up eating until around 4pm which was fine with me since I’d eaten a late breakfast.

Chucho and Siggy were both trying to convince me all day to go with them to Chaco’s big birthday party. I wasn’t too hot on the idea since I was planning to leave early in the morning to go to San Miguel, and I still hadn’t packed by 6pm when I finally left Karin’s house.

I got home and started packing. Most of the laundry was still wet (it has been cold and damp here lately, so the laundry just won’t dry, and we don’t have a dryer).

I’d packed what I could within a couple of hours, so I called Chucho and agreed to go to the party if he agreed to take me home at midnight. He agreed, so he picked me up around 9 and we drove over to Chaco’s. We arrived and we saw Walther and Saskia with a couple guys we didn’t know, all talking to the police.

Apparently Walther had accidentally tapped one of the other guy’s motorcycles with his car, and the guy had made a big deal about it, demanding lots of money. They’d already been in that mess for a couple of hours before we got there, so they were able to join the party soon after, but both were understandably unhappy. Apparently nothing at all had happened to the guy’s bike, but he’d taken the opportunity to extort a bunch of money since it had happened in a wealthy neighborhood and the party was in a big fancy house. Apparently this is not and uncommon practice in Mexico, so it’s best to not get in car accidents. Even minor ones. No one has insurance, but everyone wants money.

I actually met some really cool people at the party and was able to talk in Spanish with them! One girl, Yovanna was really sweet and even offered that we could get together and go see some stuff in the city. Unfortunately when I went to leave, I didn’t see her anywhere, so I never got her info.

At one point I got up to get a beer (I’d only had one up to that moment, but it must have gone right to my head). As I leaned over to get a beer from the keg, I felt myself falling backward. I grabbed the tap, trying to steady myself, but it broke off, so I fell, right on my butt, and in the process broke the keg. A shining moment, I’d say. I felt a little silly, but no lasting harm.

As midnight approached, Chucho and I started to say our goodbyes, and we actually left on time. He asked if I wanted to be taken right home, or if we could swing by and pick up Hector who was playing a show. Chucho assumed that they’d be done playing when we got there, but they were actually in the middle of their set.

Of course we had to hang out in the club while the band schmoozed with the crowd and eventually broke down their set up. We left at about 2pm, and Hector kept telling me I had to go back to the party. He said definitively “You’re coming! I’ll see you there!” as he got into his car. Chucho and I luckily drove separately, so I was able to get him to just drop me off at home. I really didn’t want another night where I get back at 6am with a drive to a place I hadn’t been to before ahead of me.

I was dropped off by 2:30am, and I still wasn’t packed, but I fell into bed with my alarm clock set for 7am.

I went to Starbucks again after breakfast to continue making my arrangements for San Miguel de Allende. I still didn’t have a place for the first few days, and I thought it might be nicer to have a place to go to when I arrive. I simply saw an ad for a place, and after visiting the website, I really liked the look of it, so I booked a couple of nights with them. That was easy!

I had to pick up some peanuts on the way home for Sigrid since she didn’t have any other botanas for the party. I don’t think I got the right ones, but better than nothing I suppose.

I had a few minutes when I got home to prepare for Walter coming to pick me up. I wasn’t going to be joining the family dinner today since Walter and Angeles had invited me a few days ago to have lunch with them at their house.

Walter picked me up, and we were soon at their place. Everyone in the family seems to live somewhat close by. They offered me a tequila which I gladly accepted. We ate some cheetos and other small botanas, and we chatted a bit about this and that. Mostly I told them about my plans for Mexico and about all the people in my family.

Their apartment is really cool. Lots of space and lots of light. It’s right next to a river, and the whole neighborhood looks like it could be in Germany.

They both showed me their art. Walter actually dabbles quite a bit in Graphic Design and had a few really nice pieces. Angeles does a lot of photo collage, all with black and white photos.

For lunch we had a good vegetable lasagna and a salad, and some nice coffee afterwards.

Walter pulled out a bunch of old photo books. It was pretty cool to be able to see photos of my great grandfather and the houses and factories that he’d designed. Walter said that he’d be willing to scan the photos and share them, which I really hope he does!

Eventually Walter had to go to a dentist appointment, so Angeles brought me back home.

I went upstairs and enjoyed some tea while I worked on a new pattern inspired by an element on one of the factories from the old photos I’d seen.

Chucho picked me up at 7:30, and then we headed over to pick up Hector to take him to the place where his band was going to play. It took quite a while to get to Hector’s, and he was very worried that we were going to be very late for the show.

It took forever to get to the club which was way out of town to the north. We drove through some very industrial parts of the city that smelled very bad. When I say “industrial” parts of the city, I mean, places you wouldn’t want your car to break down while driving alone, or with two other people in the car, and when I say that it smelled very bad, I mean they smelled really really really awful. Sickening really. I decided to smoke a cigarette because I figured that would be better then trying not to breath in the grossness. I was right. The cigarette was better.

Eventually we left the stench behind, or we just got used to it. We did get a little lost, but we made it to the bar only an hour after Hector’s band was supposed to play. Even so, we were still the first ones there!

We arrived and were a little disappointed with the venue, to say the least. It was an old row home converted into a bar/music venue, and it was very “low-fi” to say the least. Chucho worked his magic and managed to get us a private room upstairs for the bands to use. He also got us some free drinks. Eventually other members and friends of Hector’s band and the other bands showed up, and the little room was soon very crowded. There was one band that went on before Hector’s band, Candy, and one that went on after. Of the 3, Hector’s band definitely played the most interesting and listenable music.

After a while it became more of a party than a concert (it is basically a house after all) and again I was feeling rather isolated. I finally even left the crowded room to stand in the hall. Eventually Chucho noticed and came over to see what was up. He first thought I was made, but I just shook my head. Then he was like, “are you upset?” and I nodded. I couldn’t help it, I cried a little bit. I was just so frustrated, and I felt so out of place there. I don’t want to make a big fuss and say, “oh, please, talk to me, either in English or in slow Spanish since I can’t understand what you guys are saying.” Chucho was so sweet and really made me feel better. He even called a few people over to talk to me. Then these 3 random guys who were just there, though not part of our group, caught onto the fact that I spoke English, and then they were all in love. I seriously had a little fan club form around me, and they kept jockeying to stand right next to me, since I only had one side free because I was standing next to a tall bar table.

At one point one of them said, “American women are so beautiful. And you, you are so beautiful.” That was my favorite quote of the night (it was sooo cheesy!) until later when Hector said on the way to the car, “I was the one who played tonight, and you’re the one who ended up with a fan club!” We all had a good laugh about that. Then we went to pick up one of their friend’s who had gotten too drunk at a party, then we went for tacos, and then they dropped me off at about 6am. I lost one of my earrings in the process which I was kind of sad about.

I woke up and made my way to class through some tricky traffic, but still had a few minutes to kill before my professor arrived.

She got there just as I was in the middle of a very interesting conversation with Nic, but it’s one we can continue another time.

My prof and I talked a bit, and just as we were starting the test, the terremoto (earth quake) alarm rang. It was just a practice alarm because today is the anniversary of the big earthquake of ‘85 that devastated the city. I think the purpose was lost on the “crowd” because it’s mostly high school students who took the “break” as an opportunity to chat and smoke cigarettes. I couldn’t hear the voice on the loud speaker enough to even try to understand what it was telling us.

After a few minutes, we were allowed back into the building, and I started the exam.

It really wasn’t difficult, but I took my time, careful not to make mistakes. My technique worked, as I earned a 95% overall. She also gave me a 95% for my oral skills which I thought was rather generous. Although I talk a lot, I’m sure I’m not very accurate, and probably say lots of inappropriate things, with inappropriate tenses, etc.

After the test I just wanted to jet, but my professor carried on for quite a while, wishing me a good time while I’m in Mexico, telling me that I can call her if I need anything, telling me how well I’m doing with the language, etc. It was nice, but I just found it a little awkward, and I was glad when I could finally just go.

When I got home, I hung out with Sigrid a bit, but she was off to make 3 different types of cookies with her friend Susie, so eventually I just went back up to my room. I had enough time to finish my pattern before I had to go meet Karin for lunch. We ate and chatted a bit. She showed me the information for the school in San Miguel, but I don’t think that one will work out. Their courses require a full month, plus if you take the intensive course it’s 6 hours a day! I’d say that’s definitely intensive! After having a tough time with a 3 hour class, I’m not sure I want to dedicate 6 hours of my days to further education. Since I also don’t have a full month to attend the school, I think instead, I’ll look for another option.

Siggy arrived when Karin and I were already done with lunch. She had her friend Jimena with her, and soon after, her other friend Christine showed up. We chatted a bit, and then we all went our separate ways–them to go buy supplies for their group project, me to go get ready to see Bloc Party!

Chucho was going to pick me up at 6pm, but at 6:40 he called to say that traffic was awful and that I’d better drive myself to Polanco where we were all meeting. To get to Polanco, it only takes about 10 minutes tops without traffic. Today it took me almost 2 hours. I arrived at my destination at 8:30! The same time the concert was starting!

I sat down in the bar and had a quick beer, and within 10 minutes, Carlos, Chucho and I left Pollo and his girlfriend at the bar to walk over to the Auditorio Nacional to catch the show. It was pouring down rain. Earlier back at the house it had actually hailed enough so that the green grass looked white.

We all got very wet. I was absoluted soaked from mid-thigh down to the tips of my toes. But I was really happy and excited to get to the concert hall.

We had really great seats, thanks to Siggy. We were in row T which was perfect because we had a clear view of the stage, and could actually see what was going on.

Neither Chucho nor Carlos really knew the band. I suspect they went along either because it was a chance to go to a free concert, or Siggy asked them to go so I wouldn’t be alone.

I don’t think either of them really got into the music, but I sure did. I had so much fun dancing, clapping and screaming my head off. I got to hear all the songs that I really wanted to hear including Blue Light, Like Eating Glass, She’s Hearing Voices, This Modern Love, Pioneers, and of course Banquet among others. It was really a great show, and when we left the rain had stopped!

Chucho went back home right away, but Carlos was really hungry, so I agreed to take him to McDonalds. I had a Cuarto de Libre (Quarter Pounder with Cheese) which was really awful. the fries also seemed a little undercooked. At least they didn’t put ice in my coke.

I was going to drop Carlos off at the metro in Polanco, but he insisted that we go to another one so that he could drive with me and make sure I wouldn’t get lost. So I dropped him off at the station right on Reforma in front of Auditorio.

My shoes were still sopping wet when I got home, but I was totally happy.

Class was agonizing today. I didn’t want to do anything. Didn’t want to learn, didn’t want to talk, didn’t want to listen, didn’t wanted to check homework. Nothing. Se la vie. It was over soon enough I suppose, then I went over to Starbucks and checked email and so forth.

I had lunch with Sigrid and Siggy which was nice.

After lunch I worked on some patterns and eventually Siggy told me that her mom would pick me up to go to a the concert. I didn’t have an idea about when, so I just kept on working on my pattern, assuming I’d find out one way or another. Eventually Karin came in and asked, “shall we go?” I got ready in less than 10 minutes, but still looked rather sharp.

We met up with Pancho and Carlos, and we all went to a concert of Mexican music played by the Philharmonic Orchestra of the UNAM. It was really amazing. The concert hall itself was incredible. It was designed specifically and only for music performances. No dance, no theatre, just music. The acoustics were near perfect, and it was beautiful to boot.

For the concert itself, there was a guest pianist who was as mesmerizing to watch as to listen to. The audience kept on with the applause and he completed no less than 3 encores.

The second part of the concert was dedicated to contemporary Mexican composers. All 3 composers were present, and I particularly enjoyed the first and last of the three songs. The first was called “Pacifico” and it really captured perfectly the essence of the Pacific Ocean in music form. It was enchanting. The last was a fun Dance song with a lively beat that was just fun to listen to. Of course at the end of the concert, there was yet more standing applause, and at least 2 more encores. It was a long night of great music.

Afterwards we all headed over to a place that makes churros right near the restaurant where I had the crepas with Sigrid for lunch just the day before. This place wasn’t nearly as classy, and service wasn’t that great, but the churros were crispy and sweet, and the hot cocoa was good. I particularly liked dipping the churros into the hot chocolate as is customary. Afterwards we headed back home, and I was asleep a bit after midnight.

No school today! I took the day off in order to attend Siggy’s talk at a Conference at the UNAM. Her talk began at 8am though, so she picked me up at 6:45am to give us plenty of time to get there. It was eeeearly, but it was still better than going to class.

We picked up Saskia and also Pancho who was vital to the plan because none of us girls had the faintest idea of how to get to the lecture hall where the conference was, but Pancho is very familiar with the campus, so he directed us, and we got there with no problem. We even somehow managed to get into the student parking lot with the help of a little sweet talk from Siggy to the parking attendant.

Chucho met up with us. We all walked to the hall, and soon were established in our seats. We had to wait just a few minutes before Siggy’s talk started. I understood probably 60-70% of what she said. I understood the gist of all her points, but missed a lot of the details. Still, pretty good I thought. Her speech was on the science of love–how the reaction in the body when one is in love is like the same effect that hard drugs have on your system, and so it sets up a dependence on the feeling of love, and it’s why everyone is looking for the next fix. Very interesting indeed.

After the talk, we met up with Siggy’s boyfriend who unfortunately missed the speech since he didn’t have the help of Pancho’s navigation and instead had been driving in circles for a half hour (the campus of UNAM is really like a maze, and a lot of it looks the same). We all went to the Arollyo for a nice long breakfast. We ate so much. I tried a lot of the things that were offered in the buffet. I had a couple of blue corn sopes, pozole (a delicious soup with the corn that pops when it’s boiled that you also add a bunch of fun stuff to like lettuce, radish, lime and spices, to suit your taste), an assortment of meats in various sauces (all spicy, and I liked most of them. the only one I didn’t actually eat was the dark mole ((mole is a type of sauce, not a small mamal. pronounced “mo-leh”)) because the meat looked suspiciously like a pig’s ear), fresh-squeezed orange juice with some carrot juice, 3 tepid cafe americanos (rather disappointing indeed), and juevos revueltos con jamon y queso (scrambled eggs with ham and cheese) which may have been the best eggs I’ve had since I’ve been in Mexico (aside from the ones we cooked on the plantain leaves). The ham and cheese made it extra yummy.

After we finally finished eating, we all were allowed access to the area where they have the adjoining ring for bull fights which occur every Sunday. It’s a very touristy location, but it is very festive overall, and I had a lot of fun looking around.

After the restaurant, it was already late when we got back to Saskia’s. She ran up and got her school books, and then we all (me Saskia and Chucho) went to Santa Fe and had a coffee. Saskia’s friend showed up and they went to have lunch together. Chucho and I didn’t really have a destination in mind, but we headed back in the direction of my house, and ended up in Polanco.

We parked near a big cathedral and went in to look around. It was an interesting mix of old and modern styles. Definitely very grand.

We walked around Polanco a bit, and eventually decided to get something to eat. We ended up at a place that serves delicious pastas for very reasonable prices. They start at $48 pesos which is less than $5 USD, but it doesn’t taste like $5 pasta. I had the spinach raviolis and they were soooo good. We also got a carafe of the house red wine, which Chucho informed me doesn’t count as alchol because wine is food. Heh. Whatever you have to tell yourself.

But it was nice, and I counseled Chucho on his girl problems. I doubt he took my advice, but that’s probably not the point anyway. I think he just needed a neutral ear to hear his story and offer sympathy.

At one point while we were sitting enjoying our wine, I got a text message from Siggy: “Concierto Joss Stone hoy. Alguien Quiere?” My response, “me, me, me!!” So we some how managed to all meetup (the traffic was the worst that they’d seen in a long time. It took Saskia and Siggy 3 hours to get back from school–usually a 20 minute drive). We went to Salon 21 where the concert was already underway by the time we arrived, but we still got to see Joss Stone perform a bunch of songs. She’s got quite an amazing voice, and a fun stage presence. There was one girl in the crow who had bright red, long, curly hair. I wonder how disappointed she was to see that Joss’s hair had changed and was now dark brown with chunky purple and blue pieces.

After the concert I was pretty tired, and luckily just had to drive Saskia back to her house before I could go home. Unfortunately I still had Chucho with me (he’d left his car at my house), and he still wanted to talk. Not that we didn’t discuss some interesting things, just that I was so tired already. As it was, I didn’t get to sleep until 1:30, and I so my homework stayed unfinished.